Monday, March 18, 2013

Stalin Museum in Gori, Georgia

The city of Gori is located around 80 km westwards of Tbilisi. It is reachable by bus or by marshrutka that can be taken from the improvised bus station just outside the Didube Metrostation. 
A trip from Tbilisi to Gori and back costs around 8 GEL (5 USD) and lasts 1 hour.
As disrespectful as it may sound, my only reason to go to this otherwise very lovely city was because it was the place where Stalin was born and grew up. I wanted to see the Stalin Museum, to breath the air of the city and to see what is so special about it that it gave to the world one of its most controversial figures: Joseph Stalin. A God for ones, a terrible dictator for others. 
Later, our guide from the Museum told us: there are people that come here to pay their homage to Stalin - they kiss the things exhibited here, they even kneel in front of some representations of him. But there are other people that spit on them and they curse his name.
The rumor has it that when the Russian troops occupied Gori during the 2008 South Ossetian War, the Russian commander asked forgiveness from Stalin for bombarding his city: "Прости, Батюшка!" (Sorry, Father!)
The people of the city, however, nurture rather a friendly attitude to the memory of their most famous citizen (later I found that the famous Soviet philosopher Merab Mamardashvili was also born in Gori, but as far as I know there is no museum dedicated to him). There is no shortage of reasons to hate Stalin but the citizens of Gori have one particular to love him: he brings more than 30 thousand tourists per year. And this means money for the depleted economy of the city...
The museum is located, of course, on Stalin avenue.

The two buildings of the Museum.
 The smaller building represents actually an open air memorial for the house where Stalin was born.
 Tourists are awaiting eagerly to see the inside of the house.
 A view of the left side wall of the house.
 The plaque reads, in Georgian and Russian 
Here I.V. Stalin was born on 21
December 1879, and here he
spent his childhood until 1883
 A view from the front side. It is a typical Georgian rural house. 
The house has stood there for almost two hundred years. 

And here is the bed on which supposedly Stalin was born.

A detail of the roof that protects the house.


The monument of Stalin just behind the house.



He looks sad from this angle.

The arches at the entrance of the Museum. 


Here is a marble Stalin guarding the entrance. 




The museum displays an impressive collection of pictures of Stalin, copies of documents and a lot of things that have belonged to Stalin.
Carpet portraits are by far the most interesting pieces.


General views of the Museum exhibition halls.









They say this is how the working space of Stalin was arranged in Kremlin. All the furniture was brought from there.
 

This is a very interesting document - the Soviet Academy of Sciences has awarded Stalin the title of honorary member. 

This hall hosts an exhibition of things that Stalin has received as gifts for his 70th birthday in 1949. 

Here is a plate made by the Czechoslovakian workers. 


 And here an accordion with gems.



 This picture of a joyful Stalin supervises the halls with gifts. It protects them from being stolen, probably. :)


My impression is that the Museum is actually a Temple to Stalin. 
I do not think it has suffered any modifications from the Soviet era. There are no mentions of the Gulag, the repressions or the forced collectivization. In fact, there is no collection dedicated to any problematic aspect of Stalin's life and political activity. 
The guides in the Museum also prefer to not talk about Stalin's crimes. They call it "neutrality".

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